Two major types of sleeping bags: down-filled sleeping bags and synthetic filled mummy bags. These are distinguished by the type of material that is used for the fill. The fill is the most vital part of the sleeping bag. It’s what protects you from the cold. The fill should do a good job of trapping air, providing you with insulation against the cold outside air.

Goose Down Sleeping Bags

Down is the most efficient fill for sleeping bags, because it’s very light and traps air better than synthetic bags. This warmth for weight efficiency makes it ideal for mountaineering.

Goose Down Sleeping Bags compress better than any other known synthetics and so pack down to a smaller size. When unpacked, a down-filled sleeping bags goes back to its open state more readily and quickly. It has almost fluid like properties as it readily fills up the void compartments of the sleeping bags.

Good quality down originates from China. A debate has been made in the past whether white goose down is better than gray goose down but there’s really not much difference.

Down filled sleeping bags are marked as 600-fill, 700-fill or 800-fill. This is referred to as the fill power. It is the amount of space that 1 oz. of down will occupy.

The higher the number of fill power results in less amount of down required to fill the same space which makes the sleeping bag lighter. This is accomplished by using fluffier and longer-tendrilled down.

The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) ordained standards for down content and fill power. By law, down must be at least 80 percent down i.e. cluster and fiber rather than quills, beaks, etc.

A good down sleeping bag will bounce back when you poke it with your finger. When properly taken care of, a down filled bag can last for a long time. One avid hiker reportedly used his for more than 20 a long time.

But down is far from perfect. You need to avoid getting it wet or it will stop keeping you warm and you’ll have better luck drying mud on a rainy day than drying a down sleeping bag on your trip.

Down is a rather costly material and requires much more care in maintenance. In some cases, peculiar as it is, an allergic reaction may occur.

Synthetic-fill Sleeping Bags

Synthetic fills have been around for a long time. They come in distinguished names like Polarguard, Thermolite Micro, Hollofil I & II and more. The names change and the manufacturers will likely come up with fancier names.

There are three forms of synthetics characterized by the length of fiber. All the three forms of synthetics can be lubricated with silicon or other liquids to make them feel more silky, more like down.

Yet down is still the best fill for sleeping bags, synthetics are not far behind. One major advantage of using synthetics is that, unlike down, they can keep you warm even when wet and they dry more readily.

The biggest advantage, however is that they are a lot cheaper than down and a further improvement will take down into extinction in sleeping bags and even apparel.

GPS is an acronym for Global Positioning System. Though there are many components to the system, the essential elements are:
a) a series of satellites, and
b) the actual GPS units that people carry.

Three satellites are used to locate your position across the Earth’s surface and another can be used with them to calculate your altitude in a process called triangulation.

GPS units come in an array of prices, with the higher priced models offering more features. A very basic unit will have a display plus controls that allow you to find your latitude (east-west lines drawn around the Earth) and longitude (north-south lines radiating from the North Pole to the South Pole).

Within that basic configuration there are a variety of models and styles, most of them from Garmin. Garmin is the leading manufacturer, but there are others. Whichever brand you favor, you’ll find options for different battery life, control placement and weight.

Waterproof GPS Models

Some models are waterproof - very handy when crossing rivers and lakes or if you get caught in a storm. Different models offer different numbers of waypoints. A ‘waypoint’ is another term for terrestrial coordinates - latitude, longitude, altitude, etc. (’etc’ because there are, in fact, several ways to locate a point in space other than latitude, longitude and altitude.)

Another use of the term ‘waypoint’, and one which is incorporated into different GPS units, is the number of landmarks given on the display. That will vary depending on which map is loaded, but the ability to display more can be a blessing or a curse. You need enough to orient yourself, but the screen can become too busy to be useful.

As you go up in price, most GPS units will add features like a digital compass. Other options can include the ability to download area maps into the unit, or changing maps, zoom and relocate, and many more.

Popular Garmin GPS

One popular Garmin model (the eTrex) is waterproof, displays up to 500 waypoints, and features controls along the side in order to maximize the display size. It’s also lightweight (150g with batteries.)

Prices range from $100-$300 or more. In the GPS arena you often get what you pay for. The Garmin eTrex Summit, for example, is around $200 and has some handy features. Some GPS units require movement in order to give a heading, but the built-in compass of this model allows you to stand still and get a reading.

It also has an altimeter for judging height. That’s very useful when you are trying to use the GPS in conjunction with an area map and the contour lines showing altitude are confusing. Like other models, it has 12 channels. Those extra channels - just like a portable home phone - give you options when you might get interference from other nearby devices.

Different models have some nice-to-have features like back-lighting so you can read them at night without holding a flashlight. Many offer a tracking log so you can recall where you’ve been. That’s very useful for drawing on a paper map to nail down your route.

Do some research and look at a lot of models before deciding. If you do, you’ll definitely find one that suits your needs and budget.

On the field there’s only so much you can do to care for your sleeping bag. Just remember to keep it clean and try to keep it away from anything wet including wet and dirty clothes when you’re camping.

At home you can do a lot more to maintain your sleeping bag so that it can last a little bit longer. These tips cover how to wash, dry, store and repair your sleeping bag in the proper way.

Washing and Drying

- Keep your sleeping bags clean by washing it frequently but only when it is necessary. Washing too much can break down the properties of both down and synthetic fills.

- Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions manual and use mild soap. You can hand wash or wash in the gentle cycle of a washing machine. If your sleeping bags are too large, bring them to a launderette and use a larger machine but never dry-clean a sleeping bag.

- When using the tumble dryer, use the lowest setting . Put a tennis ball into the machine to prevent the down from clumping. The ball will help dissipate the clumps.

- When wet, handle with extreme care. Do not dry on a clothesline. Find some place to that can support the weight of the bag so that the delicate baffles do not tear. Hanging it on the dryer is a common practice.

Storing

- Store your sleeping bag in a large cotton storage sack. Make sure the bag sit loosely in the sack. Avoid putting the bag in a stuff sack for long periods of storage because compressing it too much will reduce its loft.

- Don’t store the sleeping bag in a plastic sack as the moisture will be trapped and hence provide a suitable breeding ground for mould, mildew and bacteria. Only store your bag when it is completely dry.

Repair

- Tears need to be repaired immediately especially the ones on the shell and lining.

- For temporary repairs use a duct tape or Gaffa tape. Instead on cutting the tape in a square, cut it in a circle so that it doesn’t snag the fabric.

- Permanent repairs can be made with a nylon repair tape or patches that are sold in most outdoor stores.

- You can also ask a professional company that can do repair jobs for tears, separating seams and zip problems. There are quite a few of these companies around and they might even throw you a discount if you ask nicely.

Experienced hikers will often rely on maps or GPS units to navigate along more remote trails and through wilderness areas. In fact, it’s the more experienced hikers who tend to do this and the beginners who think they can just wing it.

Casual hikers will often reason that they can stick to better-known trails and skip the hard work that’s required to learn how to read maps. And that’s a mistake, because you really can get seriously lost, even close to clearly-marked trails.

Even stepping a few yards off a trail into thick forest or wooded areas has confused more than inexperienced hiker. In the absence of sun, stars or geographical markers, it’s easy to lose orientation and end up walking even farther off the trail. Before you know it, you’re lost.

Many maps won’t necessarily help you out of that forest and straight back to your trail. But you’ll usually run across another trail or track that, unknown to you, connects with the one you previously were on. A good map will help you easily get back to your starting point.

So, how and where do you start learning how to read maps?

Get yourself a current map covering the area you intend to hike. Study it at home at your leisure. Although you won’t be able to match the map against features you can see, it will help you understand the symbols used.

Almost all will have a legend. Become familiar with the symbols. They differ from map publisher to publisher. Learn what the map’s scale is - look for 1 inch = 1 mile or similar markings.

Bear in mind though that distance is only part of the equation. One mile on level ground is one thing. But if three-quarters of that distance takes you from near sea level to 2,000 feet high by a steep, winding incline, that’s quite another.

To factor in the latter, you need to consider altitude. Altitude markings are usually indicated by a series of curved lines that, if “stretched out”, would make a circle.

The distance between two curved lines around some natural feature like a large hill indicates the altitude. Often there will also be numbers printed along the lines to assist. These are usually referred to as contour lines. The closer the lines are together, the steeper the terrain.

Now look at the longitude and latitude lines. Longitude runs “up and down” or north and south. Latitude runs from “right and left” or east and west. Those directions are put in quotes because they’re all just map-reading conventions. Maybe you’ve seen one of those maps that has the world turned upside down with Australia (usually “the land down under”) on the top and Canada down under?

In daylight you can use the sun and natural features to orient yourself. The sun rises in the East and sets in the West. So early in the day, find the sun and you are facing mostly East. Late in the day, face the direction of the light and you are facing predominately West. There are variations because of coastlines, latitude, etc. It’s just an approximate starting point.

At night, you can use the stars. You can often see the sky reasonably well as wilderness areas are usually some distance from city lights. Look up about 8pm at night. Look for the Big Dipper, the group of stars that looks like a cooking ladle. The two on the end of the “scoop” form a line that points toward the north star, away from the scoop.

Even at night then, if you have a flashlight to read your map by, you can get yourself back onto a trail to find your way back.

Hiking backpacks come in a huge variety of sizes, colors and fabrics – in fact there’re as many backpacks on the market today as there are trails to use them.

To help you navigate through this multitude of choices, let’s start with some backpack basics.

The smaller packs like waist or fanny packs are not technically backpacks – simply because they’re not worn on the back. However, they do carry out a similar role but on a small scale - so for short hikes can be perfectly adequate.

For example, a smaller pack with two or three compartments can be used to carry items like a water bottle, snack bars, sunscreen, insect repellant, band-aids, pocket knife and a bunch of other small items.

Daypacks, as the name indicates, are designed to be used for relatively short hikes. They are anywhere from 700 cu. in. to 2,100 cu. in. (12 to 36 liters) in volume and come in a variety of styles. Some have no belt strap while others do have a chest strap to keep the backpack stable. All will have shoulder straps so they can be carried on your back.

Some even have small, special purpose water bladders with tubes and other gadgets for drinking. They’re often called hydration packs and can hold one or two gallons. Remember though that a gallon of water weighs about 8lbs (3.6kg).

Whatever the size of your hiking pack, the trick is not to try to put too much in them. So when you plan to be out longer, or need to carry more, you should use a larger pack rather than stuff too much into a small daypack. There are a wide variety of larger packs to choose from. They’re usually categorized by size, typically the volume measured in cubic inches or liters. A liter is just over a quart in volume, but here it refers to space, not the quantity of liquid something holds.

Midrange Backpacks

Larger packs that range in size from around 2,100 cu. in. to 42,000 cu. in. (35 to 70 liters), are called a number of different names - midsize, midrange, light duty packs and others. When utilized properly they can hold quite a large quantity of gear, which makes it tempting to pack too much. Remember, you have to carry the pack and the contents!

High Sierra Long Trail 90 Frame Pack (Graphite, Tungsten)

Overall Rating:

Retail Price: $215.00

Amazon Price: $101.22

This category of backpack is typically made with really sturdy material and they come in a variety of shoulder strap and waist belt styles. These days most will have the sort of plastic ‘dog-leash’ clipping buckles that are so common now.

Heavy Duty Packs

The largest packs also go by an assortment of names - full-sized, expedition, heavy duty and so on. They’re the ones that are over 42,000 cu.in (70 liters), can carry plenty of gear and have a number of special features to facilitate this.

Special splines or supports are often threaded through the shoulder straps, across the back or waist and otherwise. These stiffer elements help stabilize the pack, making it more comfortable to carry. They are often designed to ride higher on the back so as to keep the load off the lower back, which helps greatly to reduce fatigue and prevent back pain.

These heavy duty packs provide all manner of lumbar support, pads, special materials and well-engineered balance mechanisms. The frames have aluminum tubing in a form that has been scientifically designed. Many have special holders for sleeping bags, or even a small fold-up tent. They come in ultra-sturdy composite materials and are close to indestructible.

Unfortunately the human body is not, so bear in mind that you have to lug all that gear around. Make sure you’re only carrying what you’ll really need, no more, no less.

The benefits of good hiking socks are often underestimated. And - although you wouldn’t think so - selecting the right socks can be more difficult than buying boots.

There are so many good boots available from reputable manufacturers, plus user reviews, that you’ll usually find ones that are sturdy, fit well, and fall within your budget.

But socks? Hey, that’s much tougher. Socks are not just socks - you know, those pieces of fabric with holes in the toes and worn spots on the heels - specially when it comes to hiking.

Sports or casual socks are not hiking socks. You don’t want to wear the same socks you use to play tennis or go jogging in when you set out on a long hike.

Okay, so what’s the big difference?

Moisture-Wicking

A good hiking sock will be thick, incredibly sturdy, comfortable, and have great thermal and moisture-wicking properties - all attributes to help keep your feet happy and pain-free.

You’ll put about 1,000 miles on a pair of hiking socks before they’re ready for the trash can. That sounds like a huge distance. But consider that it is really only about a year if you take modest hikes every weekend.

For those 1,000 miles you want comfort. The word has the ring of luxury about it - but in hiking, comfort is essential. Blisters, chafing and other foot ailments can turn a two mile hike back to the trail head into torture if your socks fail you.

Good moisture-wicking is mandatory. “Wicking” means taking the moisture produced by your sweat glands off the surface and transporting it away from the foot. If the sock fails to do that, you’ll develop fungi, blisters, chafing, and other unpleasant consequences. Forget about just bad foot odor here, we’re talking health issues.

If you spend even a moderate amount of time hiking, you’ll need excellent thermal properties from your socks. In hot summer conditions the sock has to allow good conduction of the heat away from the foot where it can migrate out of the boot. In cold conditions, feet should be kept within a comfortable temperature range.

Support and Cushioning

The fact that socks can actually perform these two contradicting goals is something of a technological wonder. Yet they do. That they can do that while providing support, cushioning and moisture-wicking is little short of astonishing.

True, we’re waxing lyrical about socks. But for those non-believers who think this is just sentimental claptrap, try some bad socks underneath really good hiking boots and observe the results for yourself. You’ll quickly become a convert. But onto practical matters.

Cotton is still a very good way to go when it comes to fabrics. Nature’s material offers all those needed attributes. But clever engineers have gone beyond nature in some ways too. Blends - Lycra, wool and others - and micro-geometry have been combined to provide great support and cushioning, excellent thermal control and superior moisture-wicking.

If your feet feel the cold easily, it’s probably best to stick with woolen hiking socks. Natural wool has superb insulating qualities, yet can still wick sweat away from your feet

On the design side, hiking socks should have thick areas on the toe, ankle bone and heel because these are the parts that get the most wear. Make sure the socks don’t have any ridges, especially near the toes or at the ankle bone. Those can irritate as quick as a pebble in your boot. They should be long enough to extend well above the top of the boot and fold down.

Hiking Sock Elasticity

Even the best socks will lose elasticity at the top and sometimes folding them down over the top of the boot is the only way to prevent them sliding down inside the boot when you’re on the trail. In any event, try to find a style and and brand that retain elasticity as long as possible. Hiking socks are more expensive than other types ($10 per pair or more), and you don’t want to have to replace them every month or two.

You should, if possible, have several pairs to choose from - feet change size at various times of the day or year. You may also need some variety for different climates if that’s where your hiking takes you. And, of course, your favorites will always be in the laundry. Buy three pairs of those!

Twenty-eight years ago, three people came up with the idea that what the world wanted was better shoes for the outdoorsman and sportsperson, and Merrell sandals were born in Waitsfield, Vermont. The people who had the idea were C. Matis, Randy Merrell and J. Schweitzer.

Since ‘81 this brand has kept its commitment to excellence and high quality shoes for hikers, runners and just general outdoorsmen. The initial product that the company made was a hiking boot that was suited to the feet of Americans rather than Europeans, with a much wider toe and a narrower heel shape.

Men's Merrell Waterpro Animas (10 M in Beluga/Rust)

Overall Rating:

Retail Price: $85.00

Amazon Price: $84.00

For men and women, the Merrell’s shoe styles include slip ons, boots, lace ups and sandals. For active wear, choose from winter, running, hiking, and multi-sport sandals.

Merrell shoes are known for the well-built, long lasting construction of their product, the Vibram sole that is the signature of the brand, as well as an air cushion positioned in the heel of the shoe (or boot) that cannot be broken and which creates padding for the heel that is unbeaten in comfort. The variety of in the Merrell brand is today one of the largest in business.

The company was first sold to Karhu USA and again in 1997 when it was bought by Wolverine Worldwide Outdoor Group. Obviously, there are many other footwear manufacturers offering active shoes, but Merrell has grown to be a big favorite because their footwear is both stylish and functional.

Merrell shoes have continued to extend the boundaries of outdoor recreational shoes and outerwear and have a commitment to the people that they serve, to offer the best fitting, most comfortable, highest quality product that can be delivered, for the cheapest price. And customers have rewarded Merrell shoes for this loyalty to them by keeping loyal to Merrell!

Merrell shoes are known the world over for their great manufacture, craftsmanship and design. The company has expanded its focus from only shoes to a clothing line which incorporates materials that are literally on the bleeding edge of outdoor technologies.

In some cases, companies have failed to see the signs and change with the times, but this is not the case with Merrell hiking shoes. As with all things, this brand has continued to make and build new markets since it was first founded in 1981 and people who love to get outdoors and exercise will continue to rely on the superior products from Merrell for their footwear and outer clothing needs for many years to come.

Ouch! You’ve been on the trail for a few hours and you’re on your way back. Unfortunately, you still have a few miles to go and you just noticed you’ve got blisters. That turns a pleasant homeward hike into torture.

Blisters are caused by friction between your skin and your sock, and hence from the wall of your hiking boot. Even the best socks and boots will still allow some slippage of your foot inside. That leaves open the possibility of painful friction.

But that problem can be minimized with a good pair of socks. Cotton, wool and silk are the most common traditional materials, but today hikers have a lot more choices. Lycra, various kinds of polyester and many others - especially when they’re combined with the traditional materials - do a very good job.

Helping those materials along are new construction methods. Lack of ridges, thicker sections and many other elements help keep socks working to reduce the friction between foot and boot. At the same time, their moisture-wicking and thermal handling properties help improve the environment inside the boot.

You can help minimize the potential problem even further by your selection of hiking boots. Find some that fit right and feel good from day one. True, many stiff shoes will loosen a little bit. But most hiking boots stay stiff throughout their lifetime. If they feel uncomfortable, try another. Find some that keep water and gravel out of your boot.

Dry Your Feet Well

If you take off your boots anytime during your hike, say to put your feet into a creek or just to cool them off, take precautions when re-booting. Dry your feet well and make sure there is no gravel in the boot and no ridges on your socks when you lace up again.

But, even with all that protection the possibility is still there. So, what do you do when they happen anyway?

When you feel a blister start, take off your boot and inspect your foot. Use some water to clean off the area and, if you brought some, disinfect the area with alcohol or anti-bacterial cream.

Puncture the blister horizontally near the base with a disinfected needle. Gently squeeze out the fluid (mostly salt water), but don’t remove the skin over the blister. Instead, cover the area with a band-aid, or moleskin. The latter is a kind of artificial ’skin’ used like a band-aid.

Once you’re home you can do a better job of treatment using anti-bacterial cream such as Benzoin. In some cases you’ll want to carefully cut away the skin flap. This is usually only necessary if a large percentage of the skin has become loose from the foot. Otherwise, if you let it alone it will simply fall off or decay naturally.

A little common sense and some good gear selection will help keep you hiking long distances. Don’t let a little heat and water ruin your day. As the Boy Scouts say, be prepared.

One of the biggest backpacking trend in recent years is hiking light. Lightweight hiking is much more comfortable and it puts less weight on your knees, neck, shoulders, and back muscles, hence reducing the risk of injury. Lighter and multifunctional equipment makes it much easier to do today than ever before. Follow these steps to reduce weight:

1. Analyze your backpacking equipment
Take note of how much each item of your gear weighs. Knowing the weight of each item will help you see the impact of gear selection on your overall pack weight.

2. Take everything that you need and no more
It’s okay to carry luxury items but don’t take everything with you. Books, sleeping pads, fishing poles, binoculars and outdoor camping chairs are some of the popular luxury items backpackers frequently carry. Use lighter alternatives if you can or go without them.

3. Base your gear on the season and weather
It doesn’t make sense to carry a zero degree sleeping bag and a four-season tent on the Appalachian Trail in July. Your other backpacking should be right for the season as well.

4. Select the lightest equipment
Replace your heavier gear with lighter items if you can afford it. Try first to find lighter alternatives for your hiking backpack, sleeping bag and shelter. But don’t go too light with your pack before reducing the weight of the rest of your load - or your musculature will pay the price for an overloaded “ultralight” pack.

5. Use multifunctional gear.
Your gear should be compatible to each other. It’s an important skill to be able to recognize the relationship between your gear and to select multi-functional items. For example, a poncho can be used as a shelter as well as raingear.

6. Choose down sleeping bags and down jackets.
Down is expensive but provides more warmth than synthetic alternatives for less weight. You need to be careful with down though because if it gets wet, it provides you with zero insulation. Down sleeping bags can be lighter than synthetic sleeping bags by as much as 2.5 pounds.

7. Windbreaker as an alternative to heavy coats
Many good windbreakers weigh less than three ounces. Windbreakers give you tremendous comfort and warmth and allow you to wear lighter base layers. A windbreaker extends the comfort range of your clothing system.

8. Share your backpacking gear
Hiking a group allows you to share your camping gear within the group. Try to be creative and you’ll find many things to share including sleeping bag, light, map and camping mat.

9. Develop your skills
The better you are at backcountry hiking and camping, the better you are able to make do without modern camping equipment. Developing these skills may take years and the more experience you gain, the better you get. You can also attend backpacking clinics, survival programs and first aid courses to aid you.

10. Travelize
Use travel sized version of your soap, shampoo, toothpaste, and cereal, etc. Get an insect repellent in smaller bottles. Bring the amount you need and not much more.

Gradually Reducing Your Pack Weight

Gradually reduce your pack weight over a number of hikes rather than in one go. It takes experience for you to take note of the things you can leave behind and only carry what you need. It also depends on the weather and trail conditions. Going light is more of a process than a one-time task.

The traditional and time-honored practice of navigating with a compass is rapidly losing ground to modern technology in the form of GPS (Global Positioning System) navigation. Nevertheless compasses are still usually cheaper, while it’s not a bad idea for hikers to know how to use them.

First some background. Thousands of years ago our ancestors first observed that a certain type of metal floating on a leaf in a pond would always orient itself to point in a particular direction. Much later - in fact only a few centuries ago - the discovery was made that the Earth’s magnetic field is responsible for this phenomenon. The Earth is somewhat like a very large bar magnet.

That knowledge has evolved and been incorporated into modern compasses, some of which can be extremely sophisticated instruments.

Detailed and Accurate

A good compass will have a very detailed and accurate set of degree lines. Most will have the North-pointing tip painted red to make it easy to distinguish from the South-pointing tip. Very few will point to true geographic north. The difference is called the magnetic declination.

That’s because there’s a large concentration of ore under the Earth’s surface, about a thousand miles away from the North Pole, that causes the needle to deviate from the direction determined by the Earth’s magnetic field.

Some compasses have mechanisms that allow you to adjust for this, depending on your location. To know how much to adjust, it’s necessary to refer to local maps.

Differences are Minor

In most cases however the differences are minor and you’ll usually be concerned about which way you’re heading, not the absolute direction. So you can adjust visually by just tilting the map a little bit and not paying too much attention to true north.

Here’s a relatively easy way to use your compass to find your position. Find a landmark in your vicinity that you can locate on the map. Draw a line from that to the point where you guess you are. Find another 45 degrees or more from the first and draw another line. Where they intersect is a good approximation to your present location.

When you use a compass, you can orient yourself approximately by combining what you see on the dial with some basic knowledge. The sun rises in the East and sets in the West. So, early in the day, face the light and you’ll be facing (approximately) East. Similarly, face the sun late in the day and you’ll be facing West. This is only approximate. Depending on your latitude you can be off.

Obviously if you face west, East is at your back. Draw an imaginary line along that direction and compare with the compass. No single reading is definitive, but the more facts you include, the better off you’ll be.

Often, just knowing the general direction you are or want to travel is tremendously helpful. Climbing up and down hills, around winding trails you can easily get disoriented. Knowing even the approximate direction back to your desired location can help keep you from getting very far lost.

Whenever you step off the trail, be sure to note the direction you are going as you step off. Keep track of any twists and turns you make. That way, if you lose your direction, and can’t find the trail again, you can use your compass to help get you back.